UKC

On the right side of the bouldering wall - just left of Skinbark and under some obvious hanging sloper slabs and protruding block higher up - sit start with your right hand in a good sloping downward hold and the left on a crimp with thumb press in the break, while the left foot presses into a pocket and the right smears on a small notch. Pull on and lean slightly to the right to get closer to the wall while reaching up to the mono with the left hand. Once gained, pull up and bump the left up to a crimp in the break, match the right foot with the right hand and then reach up to another small crimp in the break with the right. From here, bring the left foot up to a good hold and reach up and out right to a letterbox shaped recess while aiming for the right hand side of the feature to gain a decent hold, then switch feet and step up with the right to a small edge and reach up with the left hand to a poor sharp crimp, then bump the left foot up into the mono pocket and reach up to another small and sharp crimp with the right just under the hanging slabs. Next, bring the right foot up to the scooped dish and reach up to a small square notch to gain a two finger pocket, then get a high left foot and reach out round the side of the slab with the left hand to a good side-pull in the crack, bringing the right foot up to gain a pinch directly above, then climb through more jugs / pinches to finish high-up just below the obvious block.

The climb can be made easier from a standing start where you begin with two hands on crimps in the break (6b+)

Craig MacLeod & Stuart Hosking 22/Apr/2021.

Feedback

User Date Notes
andyinglis 13 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Go canny at the top - the obvious hold just below the top is loose / flexes.
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βeta: Go canny at the top - the obvious hold just below the top is loose / flexes.

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Route of Interest
Sleepy Hollow

Grade: f6C ***
(Glen Ogle Boulders)

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