UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.

Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner.  If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC.  In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access. 

Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property". 

 

13m.

Rockfax Description
Quite good climbing up the recessed wall in the upper section. Start below a short crack just left of where the shale band runs into the earth bank. Pass a horizontal break to the crack. Climb the crack to a ledge and continue up the back wall of the shallow recess above. © Rockfax

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 22/Jul/2019.

Feedback

User Date Notes
harold walmsley 11 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The groove on the left was originally left uncleaned to try and make people climb the wall, which has quite neat moves. The groove had quite a lot of dirty loose stuff so I thought it would be ignored. However, it is now clean and offers a lot of jugs. I think the grade is more like 5c now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The groove on the left was originally left uncleaned to try and make people climb the wall, which has quite neat moves. The groove had quite a lot of dirty loose stuff so I thought it would be ignored. However, it is now clean and offers a lot of jugs. I think the grade is more like 5c now.

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