UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Long 24 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Others have mentioned loose rock - if you are using loose rock you are too far to the left! There is a high crimp right of the bolt on the crux, which is hard to see from below. It had no chalk on it, unlike all the loose holds out left! This keeps you in line with the bolt rather than out left, it climbs really nicely.
Show beta
βeta: Others have mentioned loose rock - if you are using loose rock you are too far to the left! There is a high crimp right of the bolt on the crux, which is hard to see from below. It had no chalk on it, unlike all the loose holds out left! This keeps you in line with the bolt rather than out left, it climbs really nicely.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
When the Lion Feeds

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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