The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
Climb the groove in the arete to the flat roof then step left to a grasping exit. Fortunately large cams in the final break (hard for the short to place) reduce the stress levels. © Rockfax
FA. Ian Riddington 1984.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Andy Reeve | 26 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Didn't place the final cam (didn't take one large enough) but the moves aren't that bad once you're at that break anyway so just pushed onwards, would have been a long fall but probably easier overall (even taking the added boldness into account) than placing the cam would have been. Nice moves, particularly lower down. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't place the final cam (didn't take one large enough) but the moves aren't that bad once you're at that break anyway so just pushed onwards, would have been a long fall but probably easier overall (even taking the added boldness into account) than placing the cam would have been. Nice moves, particularly lower down. |
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UKB Shark | 23 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: Oh yes - and Keith Sharples did the first ascent | βeta? | |
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βeta: Oh yes - and Keith Sharples did the first ascent |
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UKB Shark | 23 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: Desperate to place the large cam off the sloping finishing holds - I had to reverse the crux twice | βeta? | |
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βeta: Desperate to place the large cam off the sloping finishing holds - I had to reverse the crux twice |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)