The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
Rivelin's second classic E4 arete - technically harder than The Brush Off but with much better gear. Climb the short crack to the break, arrange a few wires and cams whilst getting ever more pumped, then sprint for the top via some tough laybacking. © Rockfax
FA. Andy Parkin 1976.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Peaks hard stuff , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Sheff , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24 , Best Before 2025 , Will's Whippers
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ste | 7 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: thought that was what you were supposed to do. its not 6b | βeta? | |
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βeta: thought that was what you were supposed to do. its not 6b |
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john nightingale | 22 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: felt easy for E4 good gear , however continuing on the front face all the way to the top is desperate hard 6b. has anyone else done this, | βeta? | |
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βeta: felt easy for E4 good gear , however continuing on the front face all the way to the top is desperate hard 6b. has anyone else done this, |
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ste | 21 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: didnt feel like much of a rest below the crux, especially when the best bit of gear fills the best handhold. usually i hope to feel less pumped after the rest not more pumped! | βeta? | |
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βeta: didnt feel like much of a rest below the crux, especially when the best bit of gear fills the best handhold. usually i hope to feel less pumped after the rest not more pumped! |
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north country boy | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Brilliant route with very different climbing in lower half! Don't get too pumped with the arete still to go!! ;) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route with very different climbing in lower half! Don't get too pumped with the arete still to go!! ;) |
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UKB Shark | 23 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: agree with above but still definitely E4 | βeta? | |
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βeta: agree with above but still definitely E4 |
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Tyler | 4 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Must be easy for E4, possibly E3? Well protected and you can get your breath back beneath the crux. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Must be easy for E4, possibly E3? Well protected and you can get your breath back beneath the crux. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)