UKC
85m, 3 pitches. Two ridges rise up the lower right flank of the South Buttress and merge with steeper rock at the top. Magnetic Wall goes up the left hand one then weaves up grooves and slabs in the steeper rock. The easiest start to find is at a level blocky section about 20 m up the ridge that is easily gained from the recess between the ridges. The original start, if located, is lower and would add another 20 m pitch. 1) 30 m, Climb the left hand ridge until it merges with the upper buttress. 2) 27 m, Go right to an intermediate rib. Climb it to the foot of what looks like a pinnacle. Gain good holds in the recess to the right and follow them back left until a short chimney leads to the top of the "pinnacle". 3) 28 m, Climb the slab above by a crack on the right and exit left on to the upper slabs. Weave up these to the top.

John Temple 07/Dec/2003.

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Route of Interest
The Gem

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))

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