UKC

Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible. 

Rockfax Description
A nice little route following the cracks. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob M 20 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: BMC Peak Limestone North has this down as HVS 5A... really can't say what I think it was cos' I've just jumped up two technical grades so my reference points are all messed up but defo a 4b or harder & possibly VS not HVS. My guide book's abit of a joke but I don't think HS4a is accurate. And it was so hard to stay off the other cracks, pretty much impossible to be honest.
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βeta: BMC Peak Limestone North has this down as HVS 5A... really can't say what I think it was cos' I've just jumped up two technical grades so my reference points are all messed up but defo a 4b or harder & possibly VS not HVS. My guide book's abit of a joke but I don't think HS4a is accurate. And it was so hard to stay off the other cracks, pretty much impossible to be honest.
Alan James - Rockfax 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Oddly given HVS elsewhere. It is actually easier than Bimbo and worthwhile too.
βeta?
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βeta: Oddly given HVS elsewhere. It is actually easier than Bimbo and worthwhile too.

Logged Ascents

124 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 9 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 15
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Three Tree Climb

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lawrencefield)

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