UKC

Bronze for Erin McNeice at the Olympic Qualifying Series in ShanghaiNewsflash

© IFSC/Kazushige Nakajima

Erin McNeice (GBR) has moved one step closer to Olympic qualification, receiving a Bronze medal at the Olympic Qualifying Series in Shanghai, with Brooke Raboutou (USA) taking Gold and Chaehyun Seo (South Korea) Silver. 

This is the first of two events within the Olympic Qualifying Series. The next, which takes place in Budapest between 20-23rd June, will decide who qualifies for Paris 2024. Ranking points from both events are combined, with the Top 10 receiving a coveted place within the Olympic Games. Erin goes into Budapest in a strong position having finished 3rd, as does Molly Thomson Smith who finished in 13th, and Hamish McArthur who finished 7th.

In an interview after the event McNeice told the IFSC:

"If you had told me a year ago that I would be on the podium at the OQS, I would have said that you were lying. I would definitely not have believed you. It feels so crazy to be on this stage and feel competent. The China World Cups last month showed me that I have the ability to be comfortable and this has just reinforced that.

"There was definitely a mindset shift in the off-season. It works for me a lot better than what I was doing before. Also, the off-season was sort of miserable in a way. It was seven to nine hours a day working on what I needed to, but it has paid off well. I worked a lot on my Climbing, but also a lot of gym work. I wasn't strong enough and it takes a long time and a lot of hours to improve that sort of stuff.

"There were times where, it's embarrassing, but where I just broke down in training sessions. My family had to get me through that. It was just being miserable at times. I think, that time as well, I didn't truly believe that I could make it to this. But now that I have the belief, it'll be a lot easier.

"I think the aim was always to get into the top 10 for this, throughout the winter. But now I would love to get a World Cup podium and stuff like that.

"I think my family were joking about me getting my first international medal here in Shanghai, because I never got an international medal, even in youth. It's ridiculous that my first one is here.

"I feel like I haven't even scratched the surface in training, so it's so exciting to see what my peak would be."


A complete news report of the Olympic Qualifying Event in Shanghai will be published later this week.


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20 May

Bloody well done! Congratulations on reaping the reward of your hard work.

20 May

Can you watch the lead anywhere? I've found the bouldering bit on YouTube but no sign of the lead.

20 May

For some reason only the women's boulder final is in youtube (even though the video title says boulder and lead), whereas for the men's they've got both boulder and lead in one video.

You can find the women's lead final (and everything else) on the olympic website.

21 May
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