Just a few weeks after her ascent of Mission Impossible (E9 7a), Emma Twyford has made the fifth ascent of Olwen (E9 6c) at Painted Wall, Rhoscolyn, Anglesey.

The route, which was first climbed by James Taylor in May last year, is a hybrid sport-trad route, starting on the glued pegs of the E7 6c Easel-EE, before continuing directly upwards on sidepulls and underclings as Easel-EE moves left.

As the glued pegs come to an end, the climber must commit to a massive run-out until they reach some good gear, before committing to another run-out before they eventually join the top of Painted Groove Direct (E7 6c), which is also bolted.

Since James made the first ascent in 2023, the route has seen ascents from James Pearson, Caro Ciavaldini, and Jim Pope.

Sharing news of her ascent on social media, Emma said:

'Last Saturday I managed to climb Olwen (E9 6c), when I first looked at the forecast I thought there was a slim chance it might be ok but it turned out to be better than I expected'.

'Unlike Mission Impossible this route could have serious consequences low down if you fell off and the small gear placed failed. The first time I tried to lead it in the heat was a pretty terrifying experience of slippy holds and over gripping. I was way too pumped and close to the edge of it going wrong. So the game of patience ensued for a dry day with cloud cover - not asking for much!'

Emma attempting Olwen last month

'In September last year I had a quick look at this route but the end was wet, I returned a few more times only to find the route becoming more unclimbable due to seepage or seal pups being too close to the crag'.

'I thought this would be a good Winter/Spring venue but we've had one of the worst seasons this year. Summer came with expectation it would be too hot, but we've yet to really experience Summer'.

'A further return visit with Harriet and the first time I decided it was too hot and slippy to lead, I didn't want a repeat terrifying experience. But on Saturday we returned and I made the decision it was time'.

'It didn't go super smooth, the gear didn't go in quickly on the serious bit, and a foothold crumbled on me just before the 'thank god' gear, but I held it together, and arrived less pumped into the crux. From here, I could just try hard and have fun knowing that a fall could be big at the end but ok. I think part of the seriousness of this route is the crumbly nature of Rhoscolyn, so I approached this route with caution and respect'.

'Girl vibes were on point with fantastic company from Harriet Ridley. Thanks James for putting up such a cool route!'

You can watch a video of Emma's ascent below: