UKC

The Ticklist


Overview

A weekly summary of noteworthy ascents from around the globe. It's been an unusual summer for rock climbing with countries in different stages of lockdown.

#61 Bouldering Extravanganza

This week's Ticklist features some of the hardest bouldering ascents from North America, to Switzerland and Europe. Plus a hard new FA from Stefano Ghisolfi...

Show your scars for Allison Vest 

American climber Allison Vest has climbed Show your Scars (Font 8B+) at Ogden, near Salt Lake City. Writing about her ascent, she said:

'This boulder tested every single mental tactic I had and forced me to learn some new ones. I can't believe, 10+ sessions and a landslide of doubt later, that I'm standing on top, after dreaming of being there for weeks. Grateful for the people who believe in me more than I believe in myself sometimes. This one is for you'

This was Vest's first of the grade - she had previously climbed five Font 8Bs.

Alizée Dufraisse climbs Heritage

French climber Alizée Dufraisse has climbed Heritage (Font 8B/+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. First climbed by Carlo Traversi in 2012, who graded it 8B+. Since then, the grade hasn't quite settled and most people opt for the slash. Dufraisse started working Heritage in November but was unsure about committing to the hard, high mantle on the problem. She said:

'As it is very beautiful, I kept trying it from time to time, but couldn't figure out how to do the move going to the hold at the mantle. After a productive session together with Melissa Le Nevé and Brooke Raboutou, I finally find out this move and got more and more sycked.

'I started to make tries but keeping in mind that if I don't feel it at the mantle I just jump down. Climbing has to stay fun! Yesterday I arrived at the rock and I felt very good. For the first time, I knew that if I reached the hold at the mantle I would go for it.I made a try, relaxed, listening to Bob Marley and surprised myself to make my way to the top. The thing I am the most proud of is that despite a lot of uncertainty I took advantage of this moment, without hesitation… I just climbed… peacefully… with the support of Dave Graham.'

The climb took Dufraisse 12 sessions in total and she believes it to be the hardest problem she has climbed.

La Révolutionnaire (Font 8C+) for Simon Lorenzi

Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has repeated Charles Albert's La Révolutionnaire (Font 8C+) at Gros Sablons, Fontainebleau. Commenting on his Instagram, Lorenzi said: 'After making very good links at my third session 2 weeks, ago I took advantage of the perfect conditions of the weekend and sent it at my 4th try today after falling at the last move once and two fails for the start.'

He finished up his session by flashing Kaiken, a steep 8A+ at the same area. 

In 2021, Lorenzi made the long-awaited first ascent of the sit start to The Big Island (Font 8C) at Coquibus Rumont, Fontainebleau, and graded it Font 9A. Nico Pelorson repeated it and suggested it was closer to 8C+ but time will tell.

New 9b for Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of L'arenuata (9b) in Sperlonga, near Rome, which was first bolted roughly 20 years ago. It took Ghisolfi two trips to climb the route, commenting after the first trip that he needed to return with 'stronger calves.' The route climbs through the centre of a cave and features kneebar rests and bouldery sections. Ghisolfi said:

'The section after the rest stayed humid for a few days, but not today, and I immediately grabbed the opportunity to try hard. It felt so hard during the whole process, and yet so easy during the send.'

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