The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A sustained and fairly pumpy pitch that takes on the wall just left of the Leviathan groove. Start by scrambling up to a belay on a ledge under the wall left of the Leviathan groove. Follow small ledges and short walls past horizontal breaks. Just before the finishing ledge, a thin final wall is encountered, move up this and mantelshelf onto the ledge. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the blank looking wall between the cracks of Vineyard P1 and the corner/arete of Leviathan. Start on top of the huge block beneath Leviathan (scramble up the gully on the left).
Move left from the block onto a small ledge beneath a slight bulge. Move through this using flakes to small but positive holds on the wall above. Follow a system of small flat ledges up the face (using holds on the arete of Leviathan reduces the grade) until they stop 6ft from the top. Final tricky moves on smaller crimps allow the top to be reached. Mantel onto the ledge with care; a large block by the tree belay is becoming loose. Gear for the route is good but can be tricky to place.
Abseil off or traverse awkwardly left to join Vineyard or easily right to join Central Groove.
Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lundy)