The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The groove in the left-hand arete of the Main Face gives a route of great quality. Start at a wide crack in huge blocks below the arete. Climb to a ledge on top of the blocks beneath the groove in the arete (possible belay). Follow the groove to a move right at its top and a final pull on slopers. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Superb crack and corner climbing, up the side of the arĂȘte. A poorer second pitch. Start from the top of the large block.
1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.
A variation is: Instead of the move right, continue up direct. HVS 5a. (1969)
Most abseil off the tree (A bolt abseil point would save wear and tear on the
poor tree; would anyone really object?), but you can go on to:
2) 4a. Climb rightwards, and up, through vegetation until above the corner of Central Groove (Pg 13). Continue right, across a ramp, until below a slabby corner. Finish up this corner.
FA. T.Patey 1957.
Kernow , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , West Country Climbs , UK Classic Corners , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Cream first! , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , Llidberis South West Tour
User | Date | Notes | ||
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edwardford | 12 Dec, 2022 |
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βeta: The tree is beat up, but still feels ok, and there were some backup chockstones slotted to the rock on the right backing it up that seemed ok. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The tree is beat up, but still feels ok, and there were some backup chockstones slotted to the rock on the right backing it up that seemed ok. |
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343940 | 18 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse |
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NCrossingham | 16 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose | βeta? | |
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βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose |
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harrypickin | 3 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though. |
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Phil79 | 26 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. | ||
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βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. |
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Andre Clarke | 16 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected |
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John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation... | ||
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βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation... |
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Albie | 4 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality. |
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victim of mathematics | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot. |
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tom r | 5 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: good well protected route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: good well protected route |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Baggy Point)