Introduction

Janja Garnbret (SLO, 1999)

The GOAT (Greatest Of All Time) and Sport Climbing's first women's Olympic champion. Hailing from the small but disproportionately-good-at-climbing country of Slovenia, Janja Garnbret was surrounded by IFSC heros and a band of talented contemporaries from a young age, when she started climbing at 7 years old. Garnbret has set so many records and won so many events in competition climbing that she has few accolades left to achieve. Garnbret has won back-to-back World Championships in Boulder and Combined in 2018 and 2019, and also reclaimed the Lead title in 2019; she’s the only athlete to have won a clean-sweep of all six Bouldering World Cup events in a season (2019) – in which she also topped qualification and semi-final rounds, completing 74/78 of the boulders put in front of her – and has won ten World Cup overall titles (across Lead, Boulder and Combined).

In 2019, she did the triple of Lead, Boulder and Combined at the IFSC World Championships in Hachioji, where she deservedly earned her #1 seed ranking for the Tokyo Games. In 2021, she broke another record, winning her eighth Boulder World Cup in a row; the most consecutive victories in IFSC World Cup events. In 2021, Garnbret overcame significant pressure from fans and herself to become Sport Climbing's first women's Olympic champion, winning the Boulder and Lead rounds in the final after a shaky start in Speed in the qualification round.

Although she has won more World Cups and competed in more events in Lead, Garnbret’s rapid transition to Boulder events from 2017 onwards was staggering to watch. Garnbret’s gutsy, high-risk climbing style and broad movement repertoire has redefined modern dynamic climbing and attracted the interest of coaches, so much so that a move has been named after her – the 'Janja flick'. Like any champion, though, it’s not only her physical capabilities that land her on the top step of the podium; Garnbret is only occasionally rattled, and generally climbs with the mindset that she’s competing to be the best she can be, rather than battling against her competitors. Since Tokyo, however, new challengers in the form of Natalia Grossman and Ai Mori have come into the picture.

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023: 1st Place (Boulder + Lead)

A 1st place in Bern following a tricky toe injury clearly meant a lot to Garnbret as she qualified once again for her second Olympics as top seed. A convincing win in Boulder followed by a second rank in Lead gave her enough points to secure a win over Ai Mori (JPN). 

Trivia

Garnbret’s "worst-ever" World Cup result in Lead or Boulder is a 13th place in Kranj, 2019. She has only ever missed a Boulder World Cup final (top 6) once, and two Lead finals.

UKC prediction

Podium...and best bet for 1st place

Can Garnbret win back-to-back Olympic titles? Although Garnbret remains dominant in Boulder, Ai Mori (JPN) is regularly outperforming her in Lead— especially on endurance-based routes that are common in the new Boulder + Lead format. The increased expectation and attention that she will receive following her success in Tokyo 2020 is also not to be underestimated. 

Introduction

Born in the Amstetten region of Austria, just to the south-east of the country’s third-largest city, Linz, Pilz has been successful from the first day of her competition career. She won the Lead title in three successive Youth World Championships between 2011 and 2013 and also won the European Youth Boulder Championship in 2014. That same year, she picked up her first ever IFSC World Cup medal in Lead.

Pilz is a seemingly quiet character and generally keeps herself to herself at competitions, but those who know her best all concur that underneath a shy exterior lurks a forceful will. Pilz is determined, focused, strong and talented, which is a good combination in anyone’s book. She put all of those attributes to good use at the 2018 World Championships when she beat Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim and all to claim the gold medal. On her day she can beat anyone and is a consistent finalist/medallist in both Boulder and Lead. She seems to especially rise to the challenge in championship or one-off events.

Since her 7th place finish at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games in the triple discipline format, Pilz's performances in both Boulder and Lead events have only improved, with consistent semi-final and top-ten results in Boulder World Cups and regular finals in Lead—plus a Combined World Champion title in 2021 and a bronze medal in the European Championships in 2022. Having enjoyed a long and successful career across both disciplines - and with one Olympic Games already under her belt - Pilz has the advantage of experience over her younger counterparts (her first World Cup podium was ten years ago in 2014).

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern - 2nd place

Pilz's consistency throughout the last couple of seasons culminated in a 2nd place at the IFSC World Championships in Bern and qualified her for Paris 2024 at the first time of asking—an unexpected although not entirely surprising result.

Trivia

Pilz's surname means 'mushroom' in German and she has been spotted competing in climbing shoes featuring a mushroom drawing.

UKC prediction

As a veritable all-rounder and one of the most seasoned competitors in Paris 2024, Pilz will be one to watch for another top-10 finish despite a strong field of younger competitors.

Introduction

Japanese prodigy Ai Mori took everyone outside of the youth circuit and her home country by surprise when she placed 3rd in the IFSC Lead World Cup Villars in 2019. Although she was already an Asian and World Youth Champion, Mori's rapid rise to the podium, hot on the heels of Janja Garnbret and Chaehyun Seo, made her one to watch for the rest of that season and ever since. As one of few women to have beaten reigning Olympic champion Garnbret in Lead - and one of fewer still to have done so on multiple occasions - Mori is an exceptional athlete who has often been overshadowed by Garnbret's dominance. In 2022, she came into her own, beating Garnbret on home turf in the IFSC Lead World Cup in Koper, Slovenia, in what was her first international event since 2020. She repeated the feat a week later in Edinburgh, confirming that her bronze in 2019 was a sign of things to come and that her win in Koper was not a fluke.

Mori comes into her own on endurance-based routes due to her static cimbing style, but is occasionally stumped by powerful, dynamic moves. She rarely seems fazed by the pressure of competition - despite coming from a huge depth of talent in Team Japan - and often mentions that her goal is not to beat others, but to reach the Top of the routes and boulders first and foremost.

In 2023, she won the IFSC Lead World Championships in Bern, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a World Championship title in Lead. Mori expressed her disappointment at missing out on qualification for her home Games in Tokyo 2020 and her ambition to win gold in Paris 2024—something her Olympic bronze medallist teammate and mentor Akiyo Noguchi has publicly stated that she is capable of. 

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023 Combined - 3rd Place

Mori looked set for a silver medal following consistent performances in qualifiers and semis (and beating Garnbret in Lead in both rounds), but she struggled in the Boulder round. Mori redeemed herself on the Lead final route, beating Garnbret once again and finishing in 3rd place.

Trivia

Mori also has a younger brother who competes in climbing. She is also a university student and took time out for her studies ahead of the 2022 season. 

UKC prediction

Mori has the potential to win Olympic gold if she can keep up in the Boulder round and excel in Lead — but a powerful Lead route could be to her disadvantage.

Introduction

Before she became a regular on the IFSC World Cup podium in Boulder and an Olympic athlete, Oriane Bertone was best known in the climbing world for her outdoor ascents of hard boulder problems with numbers greater than her age. Then she became a dominant force in the IFSC youth circuit, winning the World Youth Championships in both Lead and Boulder in Arco in 2019. As a result, Bertone's arrival on the senior circuit in 2021 at the tender age of 16 came with a certain level of expectation.

Two silver medals in a row in Meiringen and Salt Lake City proved that Bertone was already a major player in Boulder, but her results gradually dropped off in a year of two halves (including a 41st at the World Championships in Boulder) — perhaps due to burn-out or increased pressure after her breakout start to the year. In Lead, Bertone showed potential with a 12th place in her first World Cup, but she has few participations to date in Lead compared to Boulder. 2022 started strong for Bertone with a 2nd and 4th place in Boulder, but once again she could not maintain consistent results — was it fatigue or head games?

Bertone's gutsy style has matured over the years. As a newcomer to the circuit, her youthful enthusiasm and dynamic ability sometimes got the better of her in moments where slowing down and contemplating a move might have helped her progress. In 2023, a more measured, confident Bertone left no doubt as to her intentions: to qualify for a home Olympic Games. After a 31st place in Hachioji, she won two silvers in a row before earning her first Boulder World Cup victory in Prague—beating Janja Garnbret in the process. Two semi-finals in Lead marked good progress ahead of Olympic selection, and a silver medal in Boulder and 6th place in the Olympic combined format at the Bern World Championships made her the one to watch at the European Olympic Qualifier Event in Laval. 

Qualification route

IFSC European Qualifier Event - Laval, France - 1st Place

Bertone excelled on home turf, topping the leaderboard after each round with a dominant performance in Boulder and displaying her improved endurance on the Lead wall. 

Trivia

Bertone was born on the French island of La Réunion in the Indian Ocean, where a round of the Boulder World Cup used to be held in the early 2000s.

UKC prediction

Bertone needs more Lead World Cup experience under her belt before Paris, but her gradual rise to the top of podiums and towards more consistent results is definitely happening in line with the road to Paris. At a home Olympics, there will be huge pressure to win a medal—and if she continues in her 2023 form, she might just make the podium. 

Introduction

Natalia Grossman is one of Robyn Erbesfield's ABC Climbing youth prodigies alongside Olympians Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy. In 2019, Grossman signalled great things to come with a 7th place just outside finals in the 2019 IFSC Boulder World Cup in Vail. COVID-19 disruption ensued, and Grossman returned to the circuit in 2021 with a 3rd place in the Meiringen World Cup followed by two back-to-back wins in Vail and another 2nd place in Innsbruck, securing the overall win.

Grossman's strong mindset and composure in make or break moments - along with her signature smile - soon became talking points. Her prowess continued into Lead World Cups, with four consecutive Lead podiums and a silver medal overall. To cap off her break-out year, Grossman became World Champion in Boulder and vice-World Champion in Lead.

A 2nd place to Janja Garnbret in the Meiringen Boulder World Cup kicked off Grossman's 2022 season. She went on to win the next four rounds in Garnbret's absence and the overall title, raising questions as to which woman would have won in head-to-head competition. Two Lead World Cup podiums and a silver in the IFSC Boulder & Lead announced great potential for 2023, the Olympic qualification year.

Grossman's 2023 season was not as consistent as in previous years due to lllness and mental game issues in competition. A shaky performance in Bern raised concerns about her Olympic form, but she peaked just in time at a high-pressure continental competition.

Qualification route

Pan American Games Santiago - 1st place

A nervy battle between Grossman and compatriot Brooke Raboutou ended in Grossman's favour and flipped the standings. Grossman qualified for the final in 2nd place by 0.01 points behind Raboutou, then dominated the Boulder final with a 14.9 point advantage. In Lead, Raboutou's superior performance wasn't enough to knock Grossman off the top spot; in fact, Grossman had locked-out Raboutou from victory mathematically before she had even set foot on the wall.

Trivia

Grossman is of Mexican heritage. Her motto in competition is 'smile and fight'.

UKC prediction

Following a difficult 2023 season, Grossman appears to be returning to her 2021/2022 form with a newfound confidence. She is certainly a medal contender if her health and headspace align with her training.

Introduction

Oceana Mackenzie (AUS) 

Australian Tokyo 2020 Olympian Oceana Mackenzie is a truly international climber whose origins could give several countries bragging rights. Born in Germany to New Zealander parents, who later settled in Melbourne, Australia, the young star from the antipodes showed enormous promise in climbing from an early age.

With Mackenzie shining as she came into youth competition, the decision was made by the Australian climbing federation to move her into the adult events before she was eligible under the rules. This, it was felt, would assist in raising her level by exposing her to a broader field of elite competitors. It was a decision which clearly paid dividends, with Mackenzie coming into her own in domestic competition before she was technically allowed to hold the titles she was winning. Strong performances in her first international outings also showed that this unusual approach had benefited her evolution as a climber.

After impressive showings in her first season of IFSC senior competition with a semi-final appearance in her first World Cup in Hachioji, Japan in 2018, Mackenzie really announced her arrival onto the world stage with a final’s appearance at the first Boulder World Cup of 2019 in Meiringen, Switzerland.

Since her 19th place finish in Tokyo 2020, Mackenzie experienced a less successful 2022 season before upping the ante in 2023. In Lead World Cups, she became a consistent semi-finalist and achieved a career (and continental) best in Lead of 10th place in Briançon. In Boulder - her stronger discipline - she achieved another personal best of 5th place by making finals in Brixen. 

Qualification route

IFSC Oceania Continental Qualifier: 1st Place

Although Mackenzie was a favourite to win the continental qualifier in Melbourne and seemed almost guaranteed to qualify via this route, she arguably stood a strong chance of qualifying through the Olympic Qualifier Series, too.

Trivia

Mackenzie is the youngest of six siblings, all sisters. She follows a vegan lifestyle.

UKC prediction

If Mackenzie's 2023 season is anything to go by, an improvement on her 19th place in Tokyo should be very much achievable. A top-15 finish should be well within her capabilities.

Introduction

Lauren Mukheibir of Johannesburg is a well-rounded athlete and was a strong contender for the African continental quota place, having become continental champion across all three disciplines in 2021.

With one IFSC World Cup participation in Boulder and an appearance at the 2022 World Games, Mukheibir has some experience of events on the big stage. 

2023 was a busy year for Mukheibir, involving a move to Perth, Australia for university studies and integrating into a new climbing and training set-up. Despite the distance from home, this change of scene seemed to work well for Mukheibir's Olympic selection preparation.

“I feel fantastic! I have trained in Australia the whole year with an incredible coach called Alan, and he’s taught me so much. In between all the training, I’ve been studying all the time, I’ve just finished my degree, and now this! I just feel phenomenal!” she told the IFSC after earning her Paris place.

Qualification route

IFSC African Qualifier Pretoria 2023 - 1st place

In what must be among the closest of battles for a Paris 2024 ticket, Mukheibir held her nerve after qualifying for the final in 2nd place behind a dominant Rauen Krohn. A superior score in the Boulder final and a close 2nd-best in Lead resulted in just a 0.2 point advantage for Mukheibir and an Olympic quota place.

Trivia

Mukheibir is a Marine Biology student at ECU Perth.

UKC prediction

Mukheibir's experience of IFSC events and her access to Australian training facilities could pay off if she can continue to combine training and study. We expect her to place between 15-20th.

Introduction

Beijing-based Yuetong Zhang is part of a cohort of young Chinese athletes in the ascendant. Born in Shenzen, Zhang was a youth prodigy who joined the Chinese national team at the age of 11, becoming its youngest member. A promising career on the youth circuit led to a break-out performance in the IFSC Chamonix Lead World Cup in 2019, where she placed 2nd. 

A four-time finalist in IFSC Lead World Cups, Zhang is not always consistent in her results. However, given the impact of COVID-19 on her home country and the resulting protracted lockdowns, access to training and competitions has not been easy for the Chinese team. 

In 2023, she made every semi-final of the season in Lead — a marker of progress in her Lead form that culminated in a win in the most important event on the calendar for Zhang, who did not participate in the IFSC World Championships in Bern.

Qualification route

IFSC Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023 - 1st place

In an event where Japanese athletes were arguably the favourites to win, Zhang went from 5th place in the qualifiers, to 4th in the semi-final, before securing first place and an Olympic ticket with an outstanding Lead climb after a close boulder round. A surprise win, but thoroughly deserved.

Trivia

As a child, Zhang cut her hair in the style of Ashima Shiraishi — her climbing idol. She moved to Japan for training in 2022.

UKC prediction

If Zhang can build some consistency in her Boulder performance to match her Lead results, a top-15 finish in Paris should be achieveable. 

Introduction

Having participated in 233 IFSC comps since his youth debut in 2004, Jakob Schubert is a living legend of the comp climbing scene. Since winning his first senior Gold in 2009, Jakob has won at least one Gold medal in eleven of the fourteen subsequent years.

He may be one of the older athletes in Paris, but Jakob doesn’t show any signs of slowing down, and his recent form should put all other competitors on notice. His 2023 was one of the most impressive all-round years of climbing there has ever been. In addition to a world class year climbing outside on the rock, he won Gold in Lead at both the Villars World Cup and the Bern World Championships, as well as Gold in the combined Boulder and Lead competition in Bern, which saw him claim the first ticket to Paris.

Jakob is a climber who loves the big stage, and he always seems to be at his best when it matters. As the final competitor out at the Tokyo Olympics, he fought his way to the top of the lead route, in doing so dragging himself from fifth place up into the Bronze medal position. He was the only person to top the route, and where others had failed, he made it look pretty straightforward. This time around he won’t have the speed - in which he finished seventh out of the seven competing finalists - holding him back.

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023: 1st Place (Boulder & Lead)

A (perhaps slightly surprising) second place in the Boulder left Jakob just 0.1 points off the top spot going into the Lead, where he confirmed his place with a convincing win.

Trivia

As well as being a top comp climber, Jakob is one of the best climbers in the world on rock. As of January 2024, he is the only climber to have climbed the top grade in both sport climbing (9c), bouldering (9A).

UKC prediction

2nd place

It’s hard to bet against Jakob, he always seems to come out with the goods in the big moments, and let’s not forget that he has Olympic pedigree, and that he won’t have the Speed pulling him back this time around. However, we think that someone else might just beat him to the No.1 spot…

Introduction

Colin is one of just a handful of climbers who will be competing at their second Olympic games, a feat made all the more impressive by the fact that he will only be twenty years old when he competes in Paris. 

Colin has been climbing for quite some time, since he was three years old, in fact. At the age of eight he started climbing at ABC in Boulder Colorado, under the tutelage of Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, who - for those who didn’t already know - won four consecutive overall World Cup titles in the 1990s.

Despite being just twenty years old, Colin has already provided fans of competition climbing with some magical moments. Anyone who tuned in to the 2022 World Cup series will know what we’re talking about, his double Gold - Boulder and Lead - at the home of hard comp climbing, Innsbruck, showed that he has the power, endurance, and mentality to perform under pressure at the highest level. If you need any more evidence, look back to his performance in the Boulder final at Meiringen in 2022, where he had to repeat the same boulder three times because his first two ascents were invalidated for illegitimate starts. Did it get under his skin? Yes. Did he use that frustration to cruise to the top for a third time? Absolutely. He topped that boulder more times in two minutes than the other five finalists combined!

Finishing seventh in the final of the Tokyo Olympics isn’t a fair representation of what was a very consistent performance from Duffy. With a third place in Lead, a fourth place in Boulder, and a fifth place in Speed, he was the only athlete in the final to finish in the top five of all three disciplines, and the only athlete to finish in the top four of both Lead and Boulder. His 2023 hasn’t been the season he’d have dreamed of, with just three finals and a single podium to speak of, but he was on the podium in Bern, when it mattered most, and if he finds form in 2024 then he’ll be a podium threat in Paris.

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023: 2nd Place (Boulder & Lead)

A solid round in the Boulder and a second place in the Lead were enough to secure Colin 2nd place.

Trivia

Duffy’s double Gold at Innsbruck made him the first male athlete to win both Bouldering and Lead climbing at the same World Cup.

UKC prediction

4th place

It’s hard to know with Colin, he’s not had the most incredible 2023, but he’s got a special mix of raw talent and comp experience that very few twenty year olds have. With added Olympic experience on his side, we see him finishing just outside the medals.

Introduction

No.1 seed in Tokyo and thirty-one time top-three finisher, it feels like Tomoa has been around forever - and he’s only twenty-seven! Tomoa’s background in gymnastics meant that he had a head start on the dynamic and co-ordinated style of comp climbing as it evolved, and he was also well schooled in the technical side of climbing, having been taken under the wing of legendary Japanese climber Sachi Amma - who has 30 top-three finishes himself - as a 10 year old.

Even though 2023 saw Tomoa win Gold in the Boulder in Salt Lake City, as well as a Silver in Seoul, his recent form might not be quite what he expects of himself - but only because those expectations will be extraordinarily high. Between the beginning of 2019 and the end of 2022, Tomoa was on the Boulder podium a mind-boggling eleven times in a row. You’d have to go back almost a decade, to the 2015 season, to find a season in which he didn’t make a Boulder podium.

At his best, Tomoa can make bouldering look absolutely effortless, flowing through hard moves with a precision and power that defies belief. If he can find that form again, then he’ll be right up there when it comes to the Bouldering. However, that same power can be his worst enemy when it comes to Lead, as it often means he opts for the most powerful, and least efficient, beta. For Tomoa, it’ll likely be how he handles the Lead that will decide his final position.

That was the case at his home Olympics in 2021. Tomoa came third in the Bouldering, and second in the Speed, but was let down by a sub-par Lead performance, which left him just outside the medals in fourth place. Having come first in the Boulder section of the Bern champs, and upped his Lead game to qualify for Paris at the first time of asking, could this year be his year?

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023: 3rd Place (Boulder & Lead)

Tomoa came top of the field in a close boulder round, before putting in a solid performance in the lead to claim the Bronze medal and a ticket to Paris.

Trivia

Tomoa is married to 31-time IFSC Gold medal winner, Tokyo Bronze medal winner, and all around climbing legend Akiyo Noguchi.

UKC prediction

5th place

Whilst Tomoa came third in Bern, and his bouldering skill is undeniable, we’re expecting some of the athletes who came short in Bern to up their game in Paris and be just as good as Tomoa. With that in mind, his shortcomings in Lead climbing mean that we see him sitting outside the podium, somewhere around the fifth mark.

Introduction

It seems a little unfair to pick out bouldering as a weakness for Toby, as he had an excellent first season on the senior circuit, but three top five finishes in the Lead compared to two top five finishes in the Boulder has left us with no alternative! 

In reality, whilst Toby has more experience in lead climbing, his bouldering form this year has been top-tier, with his finest moment being Gold in Brixen, where he won on the final attempt of the final boulder as the final athlete out on the mats. If you want a good example of what ‘trying hard’ looks like, check out Toby’s final attempt on that boulder. Not everyone can stay that composed and dig that deep when it matters, and moments like that are an indication of just how well Toby can handle the pressure, despite it being so early in his senior career.

Toby followed Boulder Gold in Brixen with Lead Gold in Chamonix. During the final route, Toby’s approach was measured and analytical, with perfect pacing and extreme composure. Even when it looked like his forearms were pumped and his fingers were screaming, you could tell that Toby was as focused as he had been from the moment he left the ground, exploring different beta options, finding mini-rests, and even pausing two holds short of the route’s top to psyche up the crowd before the final dynamic move. 

Whilst there are plenty of people out there with more experience than Toby, his ability to dig deep when the pressure is on, and try really, really, really hard, is something you don’t often see. If there was an Olympic Medal for being psyched, trying hard, and loving climbing, Toby would already have the Gold.

Qualification route

IFSC European Qualifier Laval 2023: 1st Place (Boulder & Lead)

After placing fifth in Bern, the pressure was on for Toby to get his ticket to Paris at the second time of asking in Laval. He managed second place in the Boulder after an excellent round from Sam Avezou, before claiming the only top in the Lead portion of the comp, and therefore taking the ticket to Paris.

Trivia

Toby was the youngest British climber to climb 8a, 8b, 9a, and 9a+. He climbed his first 8a at the age of 10.

UKC prediction

3rd place

In terms of recent form Toby is right up there, wins in Boulder and Lead in the 2023 World Cups, a fifth place in Bern - in spite of a low fall - and a comeback win in Laval all show that Toby has what it takes to make it to the podium. He’s only had one full senior season, but Toby is already showing signs that he could well be a ‘big game’ performer, someone who performs at his best when the moment calls for it. Paris could be one of those moments…

Introduction

Perhaps the most positive climber on the competition scene, Jesse started climbing at the age of six, and three years later was competing in the senior team at his local climbing gym. Since then, he’s gone from strength to strength, and - after a quick break from the comp scene - Jesse returned for the 2022 World Cup Season and quickly showed everyone what he’s capable of.

With four podiums and an overall Lead season Bronze medal, Jesse introduced the world to his own special brand of lead climbing, slow, steady, and unrelenting. In Edinburgh, he topped the route out - the only person to do so - with less than a second remaining on the clock, whilst the second place finisher fell with more than four and a half minutes left! No matter how close you think Jesse is to falling off, he always - always - has more in the tank.

However, Jesse’s strength in terminator style endurance is his weakness in bouldering. The dynamic, powerful, and bouncy style that bouldering rewards is far from Jesse’s forte. Unfortunately for Jesse, these bouncy and dynamic moves quite often work their way into lead routes too, so don’t be surprised if you see Jesse struggle through a move that all previous climbers have made look simple, only to slowly and methodically grind his way through a section that leaves everyone else pumped and unable to hold on.

Jesse’s 2023 hasn’t been quite as good as his 2022, with his second place finish in the Lead in Koper the only final to his name. However, if the route plays to his strengths, then Jesse could cause an upset - on the Lead wall at least.

Qualification route

Pan American Games Santiago 2023: 1st Place (Boulder & Lead)

Despite finishing in fourth place in the Boulder, 15.1 points behind Sean Bailey’s first place, Jesse was able to beat Sean’s Lead score by a margin of 35 points to secure the Olympic ticket.

Trivia

Jesse has a part-time job at the Harvard University Bio Design Laboratory, where he helps design exoskeletons for stroke victims. 

UKC prediction

10th - 15th

If the Lead routes suit him, then Jesse could well cause an upset in the Lead portion of the contest. However, Jesse’s lead strength is unlikely to be able to make up for his weaknesses in bouldering, as it did in the Pan Am games. Whilst we’d love to see Jesse do well, we’d be surprised to see him challenging for the medals.

Introduction

Campbell, who started climbing when he was just eight years old, was top seed from the Oceania region to qualify for the Tokyo Olympics, only for Covid-19 to cut short his efforts at qualifying, so it’s no wonder that finally getting that Olympic ticket meant so much to him. 

In addition to being his country’s top combined competition climber, Campbell is well-known for using his position to speak out about the aspects of climbing - and life - that he feels strongly about. From bias in routesetting, to eating disorders in climbing, to the protection of rock climbing areas that are sacred to indigenous Australians, Campbell is one of the sport’s most candid and articulate athletes, and he’s as comfortable breaking down a route as a commentator as he is on the wall.

Campbell’s 2023 has seen him make great strides, with more consistent performances in Lead especially rewarding him with two consecutive World Cup semi-finals. On top of that, his bouldering seems to have improved significantly over the last year. If he can continue to bring his bouldering ability closer to his lead climbing ability, then we might yet see him nipping at the heels of the top 10.

Qualification route

IFSC Oceania Qualifier Melbourne 2023: 1st Place (Boulder & Lead)

Campbell overcame a stressful Boulder round to top out the Lead route and claim the golden ticket for Oceania.

Trivia

Campbell is coached by British 9a+ climber Buster Martin.

UKC prediction

20th - 15th place

Campbell has made semi-finals before in the Lead portion of the competition, so he may well surprise some people there. Unfortunately, his bouldering isn’t yet on the same level, so we see it pulling him down to a finish somewhere around the 15th mark.

Introduction

Mel was a relative latecomer to the sport of climbing, starting at the ripe old age of thirteen - in fact, Mel’s appearance at the Paris Olympics will be in just his tenth year of climbing, so if there are any thirteen year olds out there who fancy competing at the 2036 Olympics, training starts today!

Mel has made headlines a number of times over the past few years, most notably for being the first South African to climb 9a (Speed Integrale in Switzerland), and for taking on South Africa’s Tokyo 2020 Olympian Chris Cosser in a challenge to see who could climb Snapdragon - a 7c+ route in Mel’s hometown of Waterval Boven - the most times in a day. Chris managed twenty-five, Mel, a whopping thirty-two times in ten hours.

In terms of the competition scene, Mel is relatively new to it, having competed in just five World Cup events since his senior debut in 2018. Speaking after he secured the Olympic ticket, Mel said that 2024 will be a good opportunity for him to build up that comp experience by competing at some of the early World Cups, so we’ll get a better chance to see what he might be capable of then.

Qualification route

IFSC African Qualifier Pretoria 2023: 1st Place (Boulder & Lead)

In a comp where multiple athletes topped out the Lead route, the Bouldering portion of the competition became all the more crucial - fortunately for Mel, he took the top spot, narrowly beating compatriot Chris Cosser, and claiming the ticket to Paris.

Trivia

Whilst Mel will be representing South Africa, he won’t have to travel too far for the Olympics as he’s currently studying Engineering in Lyon!

UKC prediction

15th-20th place

It’s going to be a big ask for Mel to make it into the top 15, he’s one of the least experienced climbers to have qualified so far, and is yet to register a finish in the Top 50 of an IFSC World Cup or World Championships. His compatriot Chris Cosser finished in 16th position last Olympics, so we think that a little one-upsmanship might be a good motivator for Mel to push for 15th.

Introduction

Never before have we seen a debut season like Sorato Anraku’s. It’s completely inaccurate to describe Boulder as a weakness for Sorato, since he came in the top five at four or the six Boulder World Cups he competed in, and won the overall world cup series. It’s only the fact that he won three lead world cups, came third in another, and finished no lower than sixth throughout the entire season - which he also won, of course - that his bouldering ability appears comparatively weaker, by the most tenuous of margins.

Living Legend Jakob Schubert himself seemed more excited about watching Sorato climb than he did about winning the combined Gold in Bern, saying ‘he’s such a good climber, and I’m kind of sad, I feel like he wasn’t able to show his best today, I feel like he is the best combined climber right now, today I had my day, but we’re definitely going to see him at the Olympics’.

With a 2023 that will go down in history, in which he won the Overall Boulder World Cup, the Overall Lead World Cup, the Combined Sport Climbing Gold at the Asian Games, and the combined Boulder and Lead at the Asian Qualifier in Jakarta, it’s no wonder that Sorato Anraku is ranked by the IFSC as the very best combined Boulder and Lead athlete in the world, more than 1,000 points ahead of Toby Roberts in No.2.

As Jakob said, Sorato is the best combined climber in the world right now, and, as Jakob predicted, we will be seeing him at the Olympics. If he performs anywhere near his best, then it will be a hard job for anyone to stop him.

Qualification route

IFSC Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023: 1st Place (Boulder & Lead)

Arguably the hardest continental qualifier of them all - with 6 of the top 10 ranked Lead and Boulder athletes being from either Japan or Korea - Sorato won the Asian Qualifier in Jakarta to claim his Olympic ticket. He was the only athlete to top all four boulders (scoring an almost perfect 99.7 points), before rectifying his 0.3 point error in the Lead with a perfect 100 points, making for a final score of 199.7/200. At least there’s room for improvement...

Trivia

Sorato’s debut season saw him become the first male climber to win the IFSC World Cup Series in both Boulder and Lead in the same year.

UKC prediction

1st place

In an Olympics that may well end up being a case of experience vs youth, we’ve picked Sorato Anraku to come out on top. Currently ranked No.1 in the world in Lead, Boulder, and combined Lead & Boulder, he won three lead world cups and a boulder world cup in 2023, reached every single lead final, and came in the top five at four out of the six Boulder World Cups he competed in. With the boldness of youth, the seal of approval from Jakob, and an incredible year of climbing behind him, Sorato is our pick for the Gold.

Introduction

Bali-born Indonesian star Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi came onto the senior circuit in 2021 with a 4th place in her first and only event of the year in Villars and a bronze medal at the same event one year later. 

Consistent results and ever-faster times—along with a booming Speed scene and high-performing national team in Indonesia—culminated in an unexpected but not wholly unsurprising win in Bern.

Desak Rita has never placed lower than 9th in an IFSC event, while also completing university studies at the Ganesha School of Education.

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern - 1st place

In a round of slips and surprises, Desak Rita delivered a calm and collected performance to earn both a world championship title and an Olympic ticket. By winning the 1/2 final, she secured a top-two finish and a Paris quota place. Holding her nerve against Emma Hunt (USA), she clocked 6.49 seconds against Hunt's 6.67 seconds.

Trivia

In November 2023, Desak Rita was named in the BBC's 100 Women list.

UKC prediction

Desak Rita is a consistent perfomer, but anything can happen in Speed. Her PB ranks her among the top 5 athletes.

Introduction

A World Youth Champion in 2019, Team USA anticipated great things from young Emma Hunt of Woodstock, Georgia. They might not have expected her to make such a mark in her first full senior season in 2021 and claim the overall World Cup title after the Covid-19 pandemic pause. Granted, the Tokyo 2020 Olympics and Covid-impacted entries made for an unusual IFSC circuit, but given the unpredictabiity of Speed, Hunt managed an impressive feat of consistency, placing 2nd on home turf in Salt Lake City, then 5th and 7th before winning the PanAmerican Championships.

In 2022, her results improved further: she finished no lower than 6th and earned two silver medals and a World Games title. 2023 was similarly consistent, with three more silver medals —in a World Cup, a World Championship and the Pan American Games, earning her an Olympic ticket at the first time of asking in Bern as vice-world champion.

Hunt's approach to Speed competition—typically a tense and nervy affair—appears to place an emphasis on fun and a light-hearted approach. She can often be seen giving herself a pep-talk, smiling with her eyes closed as she repeats a mantra before turning towards the start pad. 

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023 - Speed - 2nd place

Only two Speed tickets were awarded in Bern, and the race to claim it was heart-in-mouth, with many slips. 

The semi-final runs decided the top two athletes and Hunt was the first to win her race and earn an Olympic quota place after beating odds-on favourite Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL), who slipped low down. In the final race, Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) won in a close-fought battle with a time of 6.49 seconds ahead of Hunt, who set a new PanAmerican record time in the process of 6.67 seconds.

Trivia

Hunt was the first sport climbing athlete to secure a quota place for Paris 2024. Having already qualified, had Hunt won the IFSC Pan American Games in Santiago, the continental ticket would have been transferred to teammate Piper Kelly, who ultimately managed to secure a win and a Paris place outright.

UKC prediction

Hunt's upward trajectory and her strong performance at a high-pressure event in Bern bodes well for Paris 2024. Her happy-go-lucky attitude could pay off. We expect Hunt to make finals and finish in the top 5. A first World Cup win in 2024 would boost her confidence. 

Introduction

A multi-time finalist in World Youth Championship events and youth Pan American champion, Piper Kelly of Indianapolis was one to watch for the USA Climbing coaches. In 2018, Kelly won the senior IFSC Pan American Championships. Her results on the IFSC World Cup circuit have consistently been within the top 30 since 2022, and her performance at the 2023 Pan American Games in Santiago is Kelly's most impressive to date.

Kelly is coached by Speed expert and YouTuber Albert Ok. Six weeks before the Pan American Games, Kelly moved to Utah to train full-time. Kelly changed her Speed sequence slightly at key stages throughout in the 2023 season, so much so that only four of the moves from her sequence at the start of the year were the same by the end of it. (cutting her time from 7.74 seconds to 7.24 seconds [unofficial PB]).

Qualification route

2023 Pan American Games in Santiago - 1st place

Kelly didn't need to beat her Paris 2024-qualified compatriot Emma Hunt - arguably the favourite to win the event - to earn her own ticket, but that's what she did. Kelly had qualified for the quarter finals in third place, but soon rose through the ranks to face Hunt in the final round. Hunt false-started, giving Kelly the win and a chance to set a continental or world record. She set a new in-competition PB of 7.52 seconds, beating her previous best by three tenths of a second.

Trivia

Kelly graduated from Xavier University in 2023 with a degree in Exercise Science, and minors in Psychology and Spanish.

UKC prediction

Kelly has some time to cut down her PB before Paris, and given her progress in 2023 and her win in Santiago, she will undoubtedly be motivated to work even harder. A top-ten finish should be possible for Kelly, if not top-eight.

Introduction

Sarah Tetzlaff started climbing after retiring from gymnastics at the age of 11 and following her brother into the sport. A career on the New Zealand youth climbing team saw Tetzlaff earn continental championship titles in Speed and Boulder and a Bronze in Lead in 2027.

Tetzlaff moved from Wellington to Tauranga in 2018 in order to train at a national training centre with coach Rob Moore ahead of competing in the Buenos Aires 2018 Youth Olympic Games, where she finished 21st.

From 2022 onwards, Tetzlaff decided to focus on Speed alone under her coach's high peformance programme, with Paris 2024 as her long-term goal.

Qualification route

Oceania Qualifier Melbourne 2023 - 1st Place

Tetzlaff earned her Olympic ticket after capitalising on a mistake by Australia's Grace Crowley just below the buzzer in 8.54 seconds - setting a new PB in the process.

Trivia

Tetzlaff is undertaking a Research Masters degree in Environmental Science is an award-winning student of water science, researching the link between shallow groundwater and algae growth in the near-shore shallow water zone along Lake Tarawera.

UKC prediction

Tetzlaff's time won't rank her among the fastest in Paris, but Speed is an unpredictable game. If she can keep improving her PB and hold her nerve like she did in her qualifier event, she should be able to rank between 10th and 14th.

Introduction

South African Aniya Holder's journey to the Paris 2024 Olympics is a remarkable one. Having suffered three serious injuries over a period of two years, Holder returned to climbing and struggled to regain her previous form.

Disheartened, Holder's motivation and passion for lead climbing and bouldering dwindled. When a coach persuaded her to switch to Speed climbing at the end of 2022, she enjoyed the progression from being a complete beginner at the discipline to recording faster and faster times.

With just a year of training, she entered her first ever speed competition and won. Two months later, she qualified for the Olympics, having never taken part in an IFSC World Cup. 

Qualification route

IFSC African Continental Championship - 1st place

Holder topped qualification in Pretoria with a time of 11.89s, before winning the final in 11.33s, over two seconds clear of her nearest rival.

Trivia

Holder is based in Port Elizabeth and is a talented artist with a separate Instagram page showcasing her artwork.

UKC prediction

Holder has no experience of international competition outside of the African continent. Paris will be an opportunity to gain experience and enjoy taking part in a historic event. We expect her to finish between 10th-14th place. 

Introduction

Beijing-based Lijuan Deng started climbing at the age of 15. Later, she combined her training with a degree from the School of Management at Donghua University.

Due to the pandemic, Deng and the Chinese climbing team were absent from the circuit in 2020 and 2021 and their form was an unknown heading into the 2022 season. Deng returned with two back-to-back wins in the first two Speed World Cups of the year and showed that she had been training hard during the extensive lockdown and travel ban period. 

An IFSC World Cup win on home turf in Wujiang was a confidence boost and a good indication of Deng's form heading into the Jakarta qualifier event.

Qualification route

IFSC Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023 - 1st place

Deng placed 10th in the Bern World Championships—a disappointing result by her 2023 standards. In Jakarta, Deng progressed by clocking clean runs against two falling opponents in the 1/4 and 1/2 final rounds. In the final, she held it together against Jimin Jeong (KOR) with a relatively slow but nonetheless decisive win.

"I am so excited right now," Deng told the IFSC afterwards. "This was the final race for the Olympic quota so I was a bit nervous but I managed to win it. I would like to thank my great country for supporting me to come here. I am not too concerned about the other climbers, I just focus on my performance and what I should do. And finally, I did it."

Trivia

In 2020, Deng and teammate Di Niu unofficially beat the World Record in a domestic competition. Deng recorded 6.987 seconds, with Niu even faster at 6.819 seconds. Both beat the world record at the time of (7.088 seconds) set by Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu. However, since there were no IFSC officials due to the pandemic, the performance of Niu was not recognised as a new world record.

UKC prediction

Deng has limited championship and major event experience (and comparatively few World Cup participations). Some more exposure to big international events in 2024 pre-Paris could help to improve her chances of success in Paris. She is capable of a top-5 finish given her PB.

Introduction

Despite being relatively young, Miroslaw (née Rudzinska) is something of a veteran competitor; she first competed in a Speed World Cup in 2010. An early World Cup win in Chamonix in 2012 was followed by another the following year in Chongqing and it appeared that a glittering career beckoned. 

Miroslaw’s glittering career eventually arrived, but not at the time and in the manner that had been expected—podiums came in the three seasons following the Chongqing win, but a victory proved elusive and she all but retired in 2017. She decided to come back in 2018 but focus only on the biggest competitions; an unusual plan but clearly an effective one. She won the only World Cup she entered in 2018, was 1st and 2nd in the two she entered in 2019 and won back to back World Championships in those two years as well.

A 4th place finish alongside setting the first-ever women's Olympic Speed record—also a world record—of 6.84 seconds at Tokyo 2020 entered Miroslaw into the Olympic history books. A win in the Speed round was expected despite the strong Speed field represented, but Miroslaw's Lead and Boulder rankings denied her a podium place. 

Since Tokyo, Miroslaw has won nine out of the twelve international events she has competed in (two of the three 'losses' were World Championship events).

Qualification route

IFSC European Qualifier Rome 2023 - 1st Place

A disappointing and tense competition in Bern ended in an empty-handed third-place finish. Miroslaw wrote about a change in mindset that enabled her to earn her ticket in Rome just weeks later, ahead of her compatriots the Kalucka twins—who were also vying for one of the two Polish quota places—having set a new world record of 6.24s in the process.

Trivia

Miroslaw achieved the same numerical score (64) as Olympic silver medallist Akiyo Noguchi in Tokyo 2020, but finished 4th on countback due to Noguchi's superior score in two out of the three discipines.

UKC prediction

As holder of the last eight women's Speed world records, Miroslaw would be a safe bet for a medal in Paris. Having come so close to the podium in Tokyo and as the highest-placed Speed specialist, Miroslaw will no doubt have her eyes on the biggest prize. However, she has occasionally succumbed to pressure in the biggest events—can she keep a cool head?

Introduction

He may only have one podium position to his name, but Matteo Zurloni showed he had the goods when it mattered by claiming the top spot at the World Championships in Bern. Whilst his new PB of 5.02 seconds isn’t quite a world-leading time, it is a European record, and could be enough to challenge even the very best that the sport has to offer.

That single senior World Championships podium also doesn’t quite do justice to Matteo’s ability. At twenty-one, and with ten top five finishes across Youth Cups, Continental Cups, and World Championships combined, Matteo knows what’s needed to go deep in a competition, and - as the winner of the Bern World Championships - has to be considered a contender in Paris.

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023: 1st Place (Speed)

Matteo peaked with a PB time of 5.02 seconds in the quarter finals, before a false start from Jinbao Long in the final handed Matteo the top spot and a ticket to the Paris Olympic Games.

Trivia

Despite being slightly lucky in his route to winning the World Championships in Bern - Jinbao Long had a false start in the final, and Rahmad Adi Mulyono slipped in the semi-final - Matteo’s 5.02 seconds was the fastest time of the whole competition.

UKC prediction

5th place

He may have won the World Champs, but Matteo doesn’t quite have the competition experience that we’d expect from an Olympic Champion - although neither did Alberto Ginés López in 2020! We think that the Olympic Qualifier series might see some more experienced athletes enter the pack, and that those athletes will push Matteo just outside of the medals.

Introduction

Jinbao was the second place finisher in Bern, meaning that regardless of whether he won that race or not, he’d already claimed his place at the Paris Olympics - which is just as well as he made a false start! In reality, this false start gives an insight into Jinbao’s tactical mindset. For each of Jinbao’s two false starts in Bern, he was taking a calculated risk in order to get a fast time - first, once he’d already qualified for the finals with a time of 5.19, and second, once he’d already won the ticket to Paris. All of Jinbao’s other times were quick, 5.21, 5.08, 5.03. If he’d timed that final run slightly better, then we may well have had a different World Champion.

Jinbao has shown that same consistency across recent years, with six finishes in the semi-finals or better in his most recent ten competitions. Getting a PB in Bern, as well as three times under 5.10 in six races, shows how consistent Jinbao is, if he can peak at the right time, then he could take the title in Paris.

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern 2023: 2nd Place (Speed)

Jinbao may have made a false start in the final in Bern, but he’d already guaranteed himself a ticket to Paris, so things could be worse! With a PB time of 5.03 seconds in the semi finals, Jinbao is certainly one to watch.

Trivia

Jinbao’s current World Ranking - 3rd place - makes him the highest ranked speed climber to have qualified for the Olympics so far.

UKC prediction

3rd place

Jinbao is in excellent form, and has been getting faster and faster as time goes on. We think that this consistency is going to be enough to take him to a medal - albeit maybe not the Gold.

Introduction

Bassa is the only male speed specialist who already has Olympic experience to speak of. After establishing a new Olympic record of 5.45 seconds in Tokyo, Bassa ruptured his left bicep low down on the Lead wall. Whilst his overall score was still enough to guarantee him a place in the final, his injury meant that he was unable to start any of the events.

At thirty-nine years of age, Bassa is the oldest of the first thirty competitors to qualify, and will likely be the oldest climbing athlete in Paris - and yet 2023 saw him set a new PB of 5.28 seconds in Rome, and he’ll be roared on by a home crowd at the Olympics. Could Paris be the fairytale finish to wipe out the nightmare of Tokyo 2020?

Qualification route

IFSC Speed European Qualifier Rome 2023: 1st Place (Speed)

Bassa set a new PB at the European leg of the Continental Qualifiers, taking home the top spot and the all-important ticket to Paris.

Trivia

Bassa is one half of Les Freres Mawem, with brother Mickael the other half. Mickael, who competed alongside Bassa at the Tokyo Olympics, will be competing for a ticket to Paris at the Olympic Qualifier Series later this year.

UKC prediction

8th-12th place

Bassa is the current Olympic record holder, but that Olympic record is almost guaranteed to be broken this time around, with the vast majority of speed climbers capable of significantly faster times. With the fifth slowest of the first seven athletes to qualify, we think Bassa might be able to sneak into the top 10, but we think it’s unlikely that he’ll finish much higher.

Introduction

A single medal and a single podium might not appear all that impressive, but Sam was only sixteen years old when he won that Gold, and if you add his 2023 Continental Championships win, as well as his youth Silver and Bronze World Champs finishes, then you start to get a picture of just how capable this young athlete is.

Sam will be eighteen years old when he takes on the rest of the world at the Olympic Games in Paris, and, with a PB of 5.02 in 2023, it will be exciting to see just how close to the magical five second barrier he can push it, and whether he can make the podium.

Qualification route

Pan American Games Santiago 2023: 1st Place (Speed)

Sam qualified for the Olympics by winning Gold at the Pan American Games in Santiago with a time of 5.37.

Trivia

In spite of a stumble in the final, Sam’s winning time of 5.37 at the Pan American Games was actually faster than the current Olympic record.

UKC prediction

4th place

Sam may not be ranked as highly as Jinbao or Matteo, but he’s got the speed to challenge them, and he’s still just a teenager. We think that Sam might well climb to a new PB in Paris, and one that could bring him close to medal contention.

Introduction

The first male New Zealander to qualify for an Olympic climbing event, Julian David has already won a personal victory of sorts. On top of that, he’s also won Gold at the Youth World Championships, so, at the age of just eighteen, he has a lot to be proud of. 

That being said, a PB of 5.80 seconds is a step beneath the very best on an international level, so Julian has a big task ahead of him if he wants to challenge for the podium in Paris.

Qualification route

IFSC Speed Oceania Qualifier Melbourne 2023: 1st Place (Speed)

Julian handled the pressure by out-performing local favourite Hayden Barton to win the Oceania final, finishing in a time of 6.77 seconds.

Trivia

When winning the Oceania Qualifier, Julian stopped to celebrate his victory before he hit the pad, only to realise that his opponent was a little closer than he’d thought. The resulting margin of victory ended up being just 0.73 seconds.

UKC prediction

12th - 14th place

Ranked 50th in the world, with a PB of 5.80 seconds, Julian is a step below the world’s elite when it comes to the speed wall. There’s certainly time to improve before Paris, but the improvements will need to be significant if Julian wants to challenge for the medals, or even break into the top 10.

Introduction

Joshua set a new PB - and an African record - in 2023, so it’s fair to say that the twenty year old is in good form going into the Olympic year. 

Unfortunately, that PB of 5.95 seconds is a whole second off World Record pace, in a sport that, at its best, is over in less than five seconds. Unless he pulls something extraordinary out of the bag, or there are a lot of slips or false starts, we’d be surprised to see him near the podium.

Qualification route

IFSC Speed African Qualifier Pretoria 2023: 1st Place (Speed)

African record holder Joshua took the top spot in a competition that failed to break the seven second barrier. Whilst he showed consistency by being the fastest climber in both qualification and the final, Joshua will be up against much stiffer competition in Paris.

Trivia

Despite representing South Africa, Joshua - who is studying at Warwick University - recently competed in the British Speed Climbing championships, where he came in second place.

UKC prediction

12th-14th place

Currently ranked 82nd in the world, and with a PB that’s more than a second off World Record pace, it would be surprising to see Joshua challenge for the medals. We see him finishing somewhere in the region of 12th-14th place.

Introduction

One of just a handful of people in the world to have broken the five second barrier, Rahmad certainly has Gold medal pace, even if he’s not at his very best. In Chamonix earlier this year, he set a PB of 4.97 seconds in the semi-final, before winning the final with a time of 5.01 seconds - that’s an average time of 4.99 across two races!

He may only have a single World Cup to his name, but on his day there are few that can match Rahmad for pace. He’s definitely one to watch for Paris.

Qualification route

IFSC Speed Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023: 1st Place (Speed)

Rahmad won an all-Indonesian final with a time of 5.35, his second slowest time in the whole competition.

Trivia

In order to qualify for the Paris Olympics, Rahmad had to beat compatriot Veddriq Leonardo - the fastest climber in the world - in the quarter finals, which he did with a time of 4.99.

UKC prediction

1st place

Rahmad is one of the fastest climbers in the world, and he tasted Gold for the first time last year, breaking the five second barrier in the process. We think that he could make it all the way to the final, and maybe even take Olympic Gold.