Introduction

Born in the Amstetten region of Austria, just to the south-east of the country’s third-largest city, Linz, Pilz has been successful from the first day of her competition career. She won the Lead title in three successive Youth World Championships between 2011 and 2013 and also won the European Youth Boulder Championship in 2014. That same year, she picked up her first ever IFSC World Cup medal in Lead.

Pilz is a seemingly quiet character and generally keeps herself to herself at competitions, but those who know her best all concur that underneath a shy exterior lurks a forceful will. Pilz is determined, focused, strong and talented, which is a good combination in anyone’s book. She put all of those attributes to good use at the 2018 World Championships when she beat Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim and all to claim the gold medal. On her day she can beat anyone and is a consistent finalist/medallist in both Boulder and Lead. She seems to especially rise to the challenge in championship or one-off events.

Since her 7th place finish at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games in the triple discipline format, Pilz's performances in both Boulder and Lead events have only improved, with consistent semi-final and top-ten results in Boulder World Cups and regular finals in Lead—plus a Combined World Champion title in 2021 and a bronze medal in the European Championships in 2022. Having enjoyed a long and successful career across both disciplines - and with one Olympic Games already under her belt - Pilz has the advantage of experience over her younger counterparts (her first World Cup podium was ten years ago in 2014).

Qualification route

IFSC World Championships Bern - 2nd place

Pilz's consistency throughout the last couple of seasons culminated in a 2nd place at the IFSC World Championships in Bern and qualified her for Paris 2024 at the first time of asking—an unexpected although not entirely surprising result.

Trivia

Pilz's surname means 'mushroom' in German and she has been spotted competing in climbing shoes featuring a mushroom drawing.

UKC prediction

As a veritable all-rounder and one of the most seasoned competitors in Paris 2024, Pilz will be one to watch for another top-10 finish despite a strong field of younger competitors.