This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Who can make a list of the top 20 Alpinists in the World today?
I will start with three Ueli Steck Steve House and Marko Prezelj
I will start with three Ueli Steck Steve House and Marko Prezelj
In reply to Reactor2.5: Simone Moro- winter ascents of 8000'ers
In reply to Frankie1992: Jimmy Chin
In reply to Reactor2.5: bear grylls.
In reply to Reactor2.5: Griff Rees Jones
In reply to butteredfrog: and forgot to add the great Wainwright
In reply to Reactor2.5: Jar Jar Binks.
In reply to Reactor2.5:
vince anderson.
garibotti (or however you spell it).
conrad ankers probably in there.
about a dozen italians, slovenians, japanese and polish weve never heard of.
dare i say it, but messner still holds his own
vince anderson.
garibotti (or however you spell it).
conrad ankers probably in there.
about a dozen italians, slovenians, japanese and polish weve never heard of.
dare i say it, but messner still holds his own
Nick Bullock
In reply to Dan Goodwin - Mountain Plan: I have heard sir ron jushby is accomplished as well.
In reply to Reactor2.5: Ranulph Fiennes
In reply to Reactor2.5: Rebecca Stephens has got to be up there
In reply to Reactor2.5: Nelson Mandela
In reply to davidoldfart:
He isent a mountaneer, hes just a tourist in the mountains.
Reinhold Messner - The Greatest Alpanist too ever live
> Ranulph Fiennes
He isent a mountaneer, hes just a tourist in the mountains.
Reinhold Messner - The Greatest Alpanist too ever live
These are only the 14 8000's, alot of which were solo and without oxegen
* 1970: Nanga Parbat (8125 m)
* 1972: Manaslu (8156 m)
* 1975: Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (8068 m)
* 1977: Dhaulagiri (8167 m)
* 1978: Mount Everest (8848 m) (First ascent without supplementary oxygen), Nanga Parbat (8125 m) (First solo ascent of an 8000er from basecamp)
* 1979: K2 (8611 m)
* 1980: Mount Everest (8848 m) (First person to ascend alone and without supplementary oxygen - during the monsoon)
* 1981: Shisha Pangma (8012 m)
* 1982: Kangchenjunga (8598 m), Gasherbrum II (8035 m), Broad Peak (8048 m), Cho Oyu (8201 m - summit attempt during winter failed)
* 1983: Cho Oyu (8201 m)
* 1984: Gasherbrum I (8068 m) and Gasherbrum II (8035 m) at one time without returning to basecamp
* 1985: Annapurna (8091 m), Dhaulagiri (8167 m)
* 1986: Makalu (8485 m), Lhotse (8516 m)
* 1970: Nanga Parbat (8125 m)
* 1972: Manaslu (8156 m)
* 1975: Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (8068 m)
* 1977: Dhaulagiri (8167 m)
* 1978: Mount Everest (8848 m) (First ascent without supplementary oxygen), Nanga Parbat (8125 m) (First solo ascent of an 8000er from basecamp)
* 1979: K2 (8611 m)
* 1980: Mount Everest (8848 m) (First person to ascend alone and without supplementary oxygen - during the monsoon)
* 1981: Shisha Pangma (8012 m)
* 1982: Kangchenjunga (8598 m), Gasherbrum II (8035 m), Broad Peak (8048 m), Cho Oyu (8201 m - summit attempt during winter failed)
* 1983: Cho Oyu (8201 m)
* 1984: Gasherbrum I (8068 m) and Gasherbrum II (8035 m) at one time without returning to basecamp
* 1985: Annapurna (8091 m), Dhaulagiri (8167 m)
* 1986: Makalu (8485 m), Lhotse (8516 m)
In reply to Reactor2.5:
Chris O'Donnel
Robin Tunney
Izabella Scorupco
Bill Paxton
Scott Glenn (apparently got really into ice climbing while filming)
Chris O'Donnel
Robin Tunney
Izabella Scorupco
Bill Paxton
Scott Glenn (apparently got really into ice climbing while filming)
In reply to Reactor2.5: walter bonatti
In reply to graeme jackson:
Haha, classic.
House and Steck are probably the best currently. However, as someone said there are loads of Swiss and Italians, even Slovenians (these guys make bloody good climbers) and Japanese that nobody has heard of. Check out some Alpinist back issues, there's people that have done some ridiculous climbs that never make it onto the mainstream climbing websites so no-one ever finds out about.
> (In reply to Reactor2.5)
> Chris O'Donnel
> Robin Tunney
> Izabella Scorupco
> Bill Paxton
> Scott Glenn (apparently got really into ice climbing while filming)
> Chris O'Donnel
> Robin Tunney
> Izabella Scorupco
> Bill Paxton
> Scott Glenn (apparently got really into ice climbing while filming)
Haha, classic.
House and Steck are probably the best currently. However, as someone said there are loads of Swiss and Italians, even Slovenians (these guys make bloody good climbers) and Japanese that nobody has heard of. Check out some Alpinist back issues, there's people that have done some ridiculous climbs that never make it onto the mainstream climbing websites so no-one ever finds out about.
In reply to Reactor2.5: This chap: Olivier Roduit http://www.mountain-guide.ch/en/accueil.htm
Click on the news section, scroll down and start from bottom of page and work your way up.
Click on the news section, scroll down and start from bottom of page and work your way up.
In reply to Valaisan: Ueli Steck number 1! Also Stephen Venables gets my vote. He's a top drawer alpinist. Some moron on another thread tried to claim he was "posh" and from a "privileged background"! He's definately a great mountaineer AND one of the lads! A legend!
In reply to Reactor2.5:
the late great tomaz humar (sorry don't know how to spell it)
and Andy Kp he's done some pretty impresive climbs
the late great tomaz humar (sorry don't know how to spell it)
and Andy Kp he's done some pretty impresive climbs
In reply to Reactor2.5: isnt kenton cool pretty good?
In reply to Reactor2.5:
Regarding people naming Messner/Scott/Venables etc, are we naming 20 alpinists currently climbing, or the 20 best living alpinists?
Regarding people naming Messner/Scott/Venables etc, are we naming 20 alpinists currently climbing, or the 20 best living alpinists?
In reply to Reactor2.5: This is the most impossibly rediculous thread-yes i know its just a bit of fun. But, Alpinism means something different to everyone. It is even more impossible to put a top 20 list to alpine climbers than rock climbers or even sport climbers. And equally as aimless...
These kind of threads piss me off more than most. However, having had an in depth conversation with Ueli Steck just last week about what alpinism actually is, i thought it may be worth contributing. To me (and i'm pretty sure most people who have lived and breathed alpine climbing for a time, especially in the european scene), alpine climbing is all about STYLE. Of course the basic components of good style within alpinism mean independent, small group, good line, and one push, (for me free climbing although nice, isn't crucial). These components of good style have now reached a point where small group can often mean completely solo (Ueli Steck perfect example), and one push means literally ONE continuous push-best example perhaps being Backes House and Twight on south face of Denali climbing in 60 continuous hours what previously took 11 days.
Now going by those criteria several names immediately drop off the list, especially some but nota all of the ones regarding 8000's. The problem is, trying to explain the different types of climbing to a non-climber is hard, but even trying to explain to a very clued up british rock climber the different types of alpine climbing is pretty impossible. Ueli Steck's brand of alpinism is a different game to Steve House's, as is Steve House's to Mick Fowler's. Alpinism is an impossible thing to quantify, and even more the case than in other kinds of climbing, dark horses are everywhere, France, Switzerland, Austria, Slovenia, Russia, Canada, Japan. So many people out there operating at very high levels.
Come and live in Cham for a bit, trying big routes and talking to people who know their shit, and your idea of what Alpinism actually is will be flipped on its head.
Will
These kind of threads piss me off more than most. However, having had an in depth conversation with Ueli Steck just last week about what alpinism actually is, i thought it may be worth contributing. To me (and i'm pretty sure most people who have lived and breathed alpine climbing for a time, especially in the european scene), alpine climbing is all about STYLE. Of course the basic components of good style within alpinism mean independent, small group, good line, and one push, (for me free climbing although nice, isn't crucial). These components of good style have now reached a point where small group can often mean completely solo (Ueli Steck perfect example), and one push means literally ONE continuous push-best example perhaps being Backes House and Twight on south face of Denali climbing in 60 continuous hours what previously took 11 days.
Now going by those criteria several names immediately drop off the list, especially some but nota all of the ones regarding 8000's. The problem is, trying to explain the different types of climbing to a non-climber is hard, but even trying to explain to a very clued up british rock climber the different types of alpine climbing is pretty impossible. Ueli Steck's brand of alpinism is a different game to Steve House's, as is Steve House's to Mick Fowler's. Alpinism is an impossible thing to quantify, and even more the case than in other kinds of climbing, dark horses are everywhere, France, Switzerland, Austria, Slovenia, Russia, Canada, Japan. So many people out there operating at very high levels.
Come and live in Cham for a bit, trying big routes and talking to people who know their shit, and your idea of what Alpinism actually is will be flipped on its head.
Will
In reply to Will Sim:
Will
Mate hope your well, I'm back in Cham on Sat and looking for some Alpinism, what ever that is.
To put a wee bit of an oar in and play Devils Advocate..something that I'm sure will put me on "as thin ice" as you are on.
But Firstly lets not swear on a public site fella.
I think the term Alpinism is a pretty clear term, and you are right it is a question of style and styles do change.
You mention Twight and Co on the Czech Direct, yes impressive and it changed how people looked at how you can climb in Alaska BUT is it any more impressive than Mahoney and Gilmore who did the 2nd ascent in 5 days (Total climbing time was the same) but then didn't need assistance afterwards.
Each generation has a number of people who change the direction of the sport, some by a little others by a lot. This is the same in every aspect of our wonderful sport of climbing.
Alpinsim does change in terms of speed and difficulty and objectives but its still the same game even if its on 8000m peak...indeed thats where the stakes are highest.
Just because Ueli Steck runs up the Eiger N Face in 2.47hr doesn't over shadow Heckmair, Vorg, Kasparek and Harrer (1st ascent of the Wall in 38). As such I would expect a long list of very amazing men and women
I have a number of names that I consider heros, mentors and important in our fine sport but I won't put them down here, well not yet anyway.
Finally this thread shouldn't upset anyone, its just fun. Parnell (now there's a man!!)and myself used to compile lists like this when bored in tents during storms...is this any different.....people are just bored at work or at home instead!!
Will
Mate hope your well, I'm back in Cham on Sat and looking for some Alpinism, what ever that is.
To put a wee bit of an oar in and play Devils Advocate..something that I'm sure will put me on "as thin ice" as you are on.
But Firstly lets not swear on a public site fella.
I think the term Alpinism is a pretty clear term, and you are right it is a question of style and styles do change.
You mention Twight and Co on the Czech Direct, yes impressive and it changed how people looked at how you can climb in Alaska BUT is it any more impressive than Mahoney and Gilmore who did the 2nd ascent in 5 days (Total climbing time was the same) but then didn't need assistance afterwards.
Each generation has a number of people who change the direction of the sport, some by a little others by a lot. This is the same in every aspect of our wonderful sport of climbing.
Alpinsim does change in terms of speed and difficulty and objectives but its still the same game even if its on 8000m peak...indeed thats where the stakes are highest.
Just because Ueli Steck runs up the Eiger N Face in 2.47hr doesn't over shadow Heckmair, Vorg, Kasparek and Harrer (1st ascent of the Wall in 38). As such I would expect a long list of very amazing men and women
I have a number of names that I consider heros, mentors and important in our fine sport but I won't put them down here, well not yet anyway.
Finally this thread shouldn't upset anyone, its just fun. Parnell (now there's a man!!)and myself used to compile lists like this when bored in tents during storms...is this any different.....people are just bored at work or at home instead!!
In reply to Kenton Cool - Dream Guides: Kenny, yes i'm well thanks, off to Cogne for a few days now but will be around.
I'm not sure whether that counts as devil's advocate, as nothing you've said disagrees with anything I said. I used the Czeck direct as an example as its much more well known than the Mahoney Gilmore ascent and many other equally impressive feats throughout the world.
I was trying to get across how diverse a thing alpinism, (which most people think is a narrow fragment of climbing) actually is. And how because of this, it is impossible to name leading alpinists, and names put forward are always gonna be way off the mark due to people all talking about a different type of climbing.
The 8000 thing is tricky as Messner and some others have followed the alpine style principle amazingly on these mountains. Other 8000 ascents which haven't followed the style as closely have still been phenomonal feets, but would maybe come under mountaineering more than alpinism. I guess the key is in the name, alpinism is climibng in a style which you would do in the ALPS.
All we can do is talk our minds, and i'm not at all qualified to enforce an opinion compared to a great many people.
And the swearing? i think a very mild swear word used in a none-offensive or targeted way is nothing compared to some of the bitching that goes on on this site!
Good to talk Kenny, i'll see you soon.
Will
I'm not sure whether that counts as devil's advocate, as nothing you've said disagrees with anything I said. I used the Czeck direct as an example as its much more well known than the Mahoney Gilmore ascent and many other equally impressive feats throughout the world.
I was trying to get across how diverse a thing alpinism, (which most people think is a narrow fragment of climbing) actually is. And how because of this, it is impossible to name leading alpinists, and names put forward are always gonna be way off the mark due to people all talking about a different type of climbing.
The 8000 thing is tricky as Messner and some others have followed the alpine style principle amazingly on these mountains. Other 8000 ascents which haven't followed the style as closely have still been phenomonal feets, but would maybe come under mountaineering more than alpinism. I guess the key is in the name, alpinism is climibng in a style which you would do in the ALPS.
All we can do is talk our minds, and i'm not at all qualified to enforce an opinion compared to a great many people.
And the swearing? i think a very mild swear word used in a none-offensive or targeted way is nothing compared to some of the bitching that goes on on this site!
Good to talk Kenny, i'll see you soon.
Will
In reply to Reactor2.5:
Steck
House
Jasper
Houseman
Bullock
Parnell
Fowler
Anthamatten
Moro
Wilkinson
Prezelj
Trommsorff - Graziani
Pou
Humar*
Huber
Cool
Giri Giri Boys
Benoist - Rappaz
Babanov
Cave
More than 20 and I have for sure missed a plenty of great guys
Steck
House
Jasper
Houseman
Bullock
Parnell
Fowler
Anthamatten
Moro
Wilkinson
Prezelj
Trommsorff - Graziani
Pou
Humar*
Huber
Cool
Giri Giri Boys
Benoist - Rappaz
Babanov
Cave
More than 20 and I have for sure missed a plenty of great guys
In reply to Frankie1992:
Yeah, but what has he done on grit? LOL
> (In reply to Reactor2.5) Simone Moro- winter ascents of 8000'ers
Yeah, but what has he done on grit? LOL
In reply to Reactor2.5:
Simple...the ones having fun! Count me in!
> Who can make a list of the top 20 Alpinists in the World today?
Simple...the ones having fun! Count me in!
In reply to E9 Temp: Twight to name one!
In reply to: Will Sim
So what your saying is that mountain climbing has diversified to the extent where it is impossible to rank people as much as it is impossible to quantify who is the best UK rock climber (Headpoints, Mountains, onsights, DWS, Solos, Sport etc). What would your list be for different styles of ascent? In my very limited and knowledge of the cutting edge:
Solo - Steck, Tomaz Humar
Two men and a tent -House, Giri Giri boys,Chin, Bullock (loads more!)
8000m - Simone Moro, Cookson, Messner
Single Push - Twight?
Technical Difficulty - Huber Brothers?
Either way, Mick Fowler is still greatest for me - No fuss ascents of beautiful peaks in the greater ranges and big adventures! hows Chamonix Will, getting up high?
So what your saying is that mountain climbing has diversified to the extent where it is impossible to rank people as much as it is impossible to quantify who is the best UK rock climber (Headpoints, Mountains, onsights, DWS, Solos, Sport etc). What would your list be for different styles of ascent? In my very limited and knowledge of the cutting edge:
Solo - Steck, Tomaz Humar
Two men and a tent -House, Giri Giri boys,Chin, Bullock (loads more!)
8000m - Simone Moro, Cookson, Messner
Single Push - Twight?
Technical Difficulty - Huber Brothers?
Either way, Mick Fowler is still greatest for me - No fuss ascents of beautiful peaks in the greater ranges and big adventures! hows Chamonix Will, getting up high?
In reply to Reactor2.5: Joao Garcia
In reply to Tom_Harding:
How many of those where done alpine style?
His achievements in the alps where up there in their day, but I would say his list of 8000ers is not that relevant.
The greatest ever is Bonatti by the way.
How many of those where done alpine style?
His achievements in the alps where up there in their day, but I would say his list of 8000ers is not that relevant.
The greatest ever is Bonatti by the way.
In reply to Reactor2.5:
Nick Bullock is probably the best of the current British crop, climbing hard in the Fowler tradition. We should not forget Fowler himself.
Nick Bullock is probably the best of the current British crop, climbing hard in the Fowler tradition. We should not forget Fowler himself.
In reply:
British climber Bruce Normand has made over 15 first ascents and new routes on 6000m peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram in recent years. He is the first Scot to summit K2 (2007). His 2009 mega-route in the Chinese TianShan is nominated for the 2010 Piolet d'Or.
But he's not sponsored by any UK gear companies and he doesn't write the typical mediocre articles for the UK magazines. His climbing CV is astounding and makes a joke of many 'professional' climbers and the usual tired and overhyped names trotted out here.
Funny how everyone talks about how 'low key' Mick Fowler is. The guy has written two books about himself!
D
British climber Bruce Normand has made over 15 first ascents and new routes on 6000m peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram in recent years. He is the first Scot to summit K2 (2007). His 2009 mega-route in the Chinese TianShan is nominated for the 2010 Piolet d'Or.
But he's not sponsored by any UK gear companies and he doesn't write the typical mediocre articles for the UK magazines. His climbing CV is astounding and makes a joke of many 'professional' climbers and the usual tired and overhyped names trotted out here.
Funny how everyone talks about how 'low key' Mick Fowler is. The guy has written two books about himself!
D
In reply to psykx:
Didn't he recently make a temporary switch over to trad-adventure margaritas making? Sorry, bad taste. Hoping for his quick recovery.
> (In reply to Reactor2.5)
>
> kelly cordes
>
> kelly cordes
Didn't he recently make a temporary switch over to trad-adventure margaritas making? Sorry, bad taste. Hoping for his quick recovery.
In reply to MRJ:
If it's in bad taste then delete it man, so that Kelly doesn't have to come across it and read it, rather than post it and apologise... The guy has probably got more than enough "internet-surfing time" on his hands right now to be able to read all the climbing forums. Just a thought.
> (In reply to psykx)
Sorry, bad taste.If it's in bad taste then delete it man, so that Kelly doesn't have to come across it and read it, rather than post it and apologise... The guy has probably got more than enough "internet-surfing time" on his hands right now to be able to read all the climbing forums. Just a thought.
In reply to Reactor2.5:
The "best" alpinist is the unknown one.
Will people never tire of "celeb" culture?
The "best" alpinist is the unknown one.
Will people never tire of "celeb" culture?
In reply to TonyG:
Well I figured from the number of margaritas-related jokes on his side he personally wouldn't be likely to take any offence, the addition was a bit of a joke in itself I guess.
Well I figured from the number of margaritas-related jokes on his side he personally wouldn't be likely to take any offence, the addition was a bit of a joke in itself I guess.
In reply to Bruce Hooker:
> (In reply to Reactor2.5)
>
> The "best" alpinist is the unknown one.
>
How do you know? >
> The "best" alpinist is the unknown one.
>
In reply to Reactor2.5:
I thought the best Alpinist was number 8 - the one with Yuji Hirayama on the cover and The Titan as profiled mountain. Number 25, the El Capitan issue, with a great article on UK sea-cliff climbing was pretty good too.
I thought the best Alpinist was number 8 - the one with Yuji Hirayama on the cover and The Titan as profiled mountain. Number 25, the El Capitan issue, with a great article on UK sea-cliff climbing was pretty good too.
In reply to Damo:
Do people talk about how 'low key' Fowler is.
I think the main thing people wonder about is how he manages to fit so much into his life.
Do people talk about how 'low key' Fowler is.
I think the main thing people wonder about is how he manages to fit so much into his life.
In reply to Reactor2.5:
Suprised no one has mentioned late great Karl Unterkircher. Or what about Denis Urubko?
Suprised no one has mentioned late great Karl Unterkircher. Or what about Denis Urubko?
In reply to king_of_gibraltar:
Chuck doesn't climb mountains; he pushes them down till the tops are level with him.
> (In reply to Reactor2.5)
>
> Chuck Norris
>
> Chuck Norris
Chuck doesn't climb mountains; he pushes them down till the tops are level with him.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
News Great Britain's Paris 2024 Olympic Sport Climbing Team Officially Announced
The four climbers selected to represent Great Britain in the Paris 2024 Olympic Games have been officially announced by the British Olympic Association. Following their performances in the Olympic Qualifier Series last...
5 Jul
Loading Notifications...